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January 14th, 2010Discovering Han Snel Bungalows in Ubud
January 8th, 2010When we first moved to Ubud, we quickly discovered one of its hidden secrets and totally quite by accident.
We were invited to a roast lunch, hosted by the S.O’s friend, at a place called Han Snel.
The Sunday roast lunch we enjoyed.Having no idea what it was – A restuarant? A warung? Someone’s home? – we had to call the organiser for directions, before and even during our journey down to the venue, which was located on Jalan Kajeng near central Ubud.
When we arrived, the sign at the entrance of the place read: Han Snel Bungalows & Gallery.
There was a driveway sufficiently large for two APVs to pass side-by-side but could only park three similar vehicles length wise.
Walking through the entrance of the property and down a short pebbled path flanked by tropical plants, we passed the reception area on the right, which was immediately followed by the on-site restaurant’s dining area.
Straight ahead was the bar, which was flanked on the right by a medium fish pond and on the the left by a Balinese gate entrance.
Looking at the bar while approaching from the entrance.
The Balinese gate entrance.Walking through that entrance, we arrived at a collection of rooms that were cosy yet looked comfortable.
Each of the rooms had an attached bathroom and terrace.
One of the rooms, viewed from the terrace.Beyond the fish pond mentioned early was another area that was transformed in to an art gallery exhibiting the paintings of Han Snel, the man that this place was named after.
The fish pond, with the art gallery in the back.Turns out that this is a homestay bungalow cum art gallery established by the Dutch man Han Snel and his Balinese wife when he was living in Ubud. Snel has passed on, but Ibu Siti still lives on the premises and runs the place.
It seems that back when Snel was alive, this was the place to be seen at. There were several dinner parties, and after-party parties where many long-time Bali expatriates and some more open-minded locals always attended.
However, as with all places that attract a crowd based on the charm and charisma of its owner, the place died a natural death with Snel’s passing.
The gallery is still open and free for whomever wants to find out more about the artist and view his works.
The rooms at the Han Snel Bungalow are available for rent. Rates start from Rp150,000 (approximately US$17 / €12) per night for a garden view room with fan, when we asked back in April of 2009. It is advisable to check directly with them, view their website: http://www.hansnelbungalow.com/reservation.html
For more information about Han Snel, click to this Wikipedia article on Han Snel.
Here are a few more pictures of the place for your enjoyment.
Exterior of the river view room.
View looking out from the above room. There is also a swimming pool located on the level below the room.
View of the restaurant and bar from the same room.
Portrait of Han Snel at the end of the bar area.Rain, rain, come again today!
January 6th, 2010It is supposed to be raining season in Bali now. The season was supposed to have begun in late October or early November and end only in early March.
In past years, approximately at this time, we are enjoying the warm and dry weather somewhere in Thailand while heavy downpours cover the island of the Gods.
However, when rain arrives, it has been sparse. It is a rain consisting of moderate, thin and light drops falling for about three hours maximum. This brief respite also happens only once every three or four days, usually when the heat from the bright sun has caused a more than a number of heat related illnesses.
Quite a far cry from the rain of past years, which was thick, fact, relentless assault of torrential water dumped for eight hours at a stretch, four days in a row.
Then, if you headed out, you had to bring a towel to dry off plus an extra set of clothes and footwear to change in to.
What is happening here in Bali, where the much anticipated and welcomed raining season is all but disappearing? Could the island also be suffering the effects of climate change?
While rain is inconvenient for office-bound employees on work days, and for well-groomed couples meeting for a date night, it is essential for the livelihood of the Balinese. Many of them still rely on agriculture for a living and use free running water for their daily needs such as bathing and laundry.
Although there is an ingenious irrigation system used in the rice fields here (this deserves a separate entry on its own), if occassional rain does not keep the fields irrigated, the rice saplings are unable to develop fully. Spice and coffee plantations also rely on the seasonal rains for irrigation before the next planting cycle starts.
For the average Balinese, especially those living in higher lands like Bedugal and Ubud, they collect water that flows direct from the mountains and hills for everyday chorse such as bathing and washing. It is not uncommon to find a Balinese lady standing in the ditch with water arriving at her waist either washing the family’s laundry or soaping herself as the water runs by. This water is also used to wash their dishes, water their plants and clean their home compounds.
For expatriates here, depending on which part of Bali we have settled in, some of us rely on ground wells for water that is used in the home. In our home, the water pumped up from our ground well is used for washing dishes, doing the laundry, general cleaning and bathing. Whenever there is insufficient water in the well, we have to substitute with the water from gallon bottles, which are normally used for drinking, cooking and brushing teeth.
Personally, I love the smell of rain and the cool respite it brings. There is also something rejuvenating about rain – it is almost like a symbolic thing that washes away whatever that was bad or bothering me, while refreshing me at the same time. Rain always makes me feel more awake in my thoughts and feelings, so the lack of it at this moment is sorely felt by me.
As I look out of the window while rounding off this entry, dark clouds are gathering over the space of sky ahead. Hopefully they will open up before evening ends, so that we have a cool night’s rest tonight.
New year, new look at our adopted home
January 3rd, 2010Hello everyone, I have been extremely slack in updating this blog of mine, considering that there are so many wonderful things and events that happen daily in Bali.
For the new year, I have decided on this plan:
1) Shift the blog to a new platform – will inform you of the new URL to bookmark.
2) Update the blog at least once a week.
3) Update to cover at one of these areas of interest for visitors of Bali: place to stay; where to eat; what to do; events.
If you have any ideas or suggestions about what you want to see on this blog, let me know. Eventually, it is to be a resource first for my friends who are coming to Bali then everyone else.
Happy 2010!
Belated birthday wishes for a professional photographer friend
November 15th, 2009During my first visit to Ubud – and Bali – three and a half years ago, I entered the photography gallery of Rio Helmi along Jalan Suweta.
Actually, at first look, every piece on display looked like paintings. Such was the high quality of the prints. Later, I would learn that not only is Rio Helmi a professional photographer who has a keen eye for details, he also insists on using only the best quality materials for developing and producing the prints for his photography prints gallery in Ubud. These include traditional wet prints in both colour and black & white, digital prints in archival ink on archival paper, and ink on polyvinyl poster, among others. There are limited numbers of the photographic prints available at his photographic prints gallery in Ubud, and all are signed by Rio Helmi himself.
Although Rio has experience in all kinds of photojournalism photography work, published books of interior photography, and other commercial photography work, in my opinion, his best pictures are the ones that capture the essence and spirit of Bali.
Why do the photographs of Bali by Rio stand out? Besides capturing a slice of life – *that* moment in time – in Bali, each of the images seem to have its personal story waiting to be told. Whether it is a shadow of a dancer cast on the ground, a close-up of a dancer in a trance during the performance, or an aerial view of a seaweed farm, when you look at the images, it seems as if the tale behind them is popping out from within and grabbing your attention with a firm grip on your head.
I also say this from personal experience. After moving to Bali, I had the great fortune of making the acquaintance of Rio through my husband and some common friends. Through work functions and social functions, we have grown to become friends with Rio and over the past three years, we have been privileged to see quite a number of his work at his studio.
In fact, he generously sponsored the shoot and images for our pre-wedding photographs. Also, as he is always moving around with a camera (and his trusty Mac book) in hand, he has captured moments during various occasions in our lives, such as our Balinese blessing ceremony and gatherings with our infant son. The images are always vivid, and seem alive.
Perhaps it is his long residency (approximately more than 30 years) in Bali, which has given him an unparalleled insight to this island. Or perhaps it is the different cultures and sights that Rio was exposed during his childhood, when together with his Turkish mother, Rio followed his Indonesian diplomat father on various postings.
The exposure that Rio gained in his early years could also explain the interest that this professional commercial photographer has for humanitarian issues, political issues, and advances in technology. He is never without a subject of discussion for his blog.
Well, my very interesting and engaging commercial photographer friend turned 55 years old on November 12, and from the looks of things, Rio Helmi has geared himself up for more years of photo-shooting and opinion-giving.
Happy birthday, pak Rio! Hopefully I can be as witty, sharp-witted and still possess a keen eye for detail when I reach 55 years old. May the following year bring you greater fortunes, lasting happiness and more impressive work!
Harvest time again
November 2nd, 2009As I approached my work space at home, a familiar sound greeted me – the thrashing of dried rice stalks.
Yes, it is harvest time again in the rice fields behind our rented home in Ubud. The last time the ibus (women) harvested the rice from these same fields was in April, and I took some pictures of them in action.
The sight and sound of them working is always pleasant. It tells me that the earth is bountiful, that there is life in everything around us, and that very soon, the fields will be first filled with water before turning green again, during another cycle of growing rice.
It really is a wonderful scene to wake up to every morning and watch the change through six months.
Do you experience something similar where you live? Share it with us!
Why September went by so quickly
September 24th, 2009It has been quite a month, September.
Whatever happened from the 1st to the 7th of the month is a hazy memory for me.
However, I think some part of the time was spent sending word out that we needed a maid to help take care of the home during the two weeks when our usual maid returns to Bangiwangi, East Java for the Idul Fitri holidays.
There was also an unusual amount of rain spread over three to four days, bringing along with it a huge drop in temperatures especially in the night. This was strange since currently it is supposed to be the best season in Bali – clear skies with bright sunshine, low humidity and cool breezes blowing through the day.
Turned out that what we were experiencing the effects of the Madden-Julian Oscillation, which is a 40 to 60 day oscillation of winds discovered by Roland Madden and Paul Julian in 1971.
Scientists are still not sure whether this is or is not a result of climate change.
I only mentioned the Madden-Julian oscillation because its effects were still felt in Bali until yesterday. We might get a window of respite from the rain for an afternoon, before the skies opened up again with water. The sun was hardly seen, and definitely sorely missed.
This morning, I woke to slightly warmer temperatures and bright sunshine. White fluffy clouds drifted by under an azure sky. We were finally able to put our damp laundry under the sun!
Together with the good weather were also resolutions to some domestic problems we had been facing in the past week.
The biggest one was a lack of water in the house, despite all the rain outside. While our house in Jimbaran has water piped in from supply provided by the Bali utilities board, water for our house in Ubud is obtained by pumping up water from an underground well. The water is then stored in a stone water tower for use.
For about three days, no matter how long the pump was left on, there was never sufficient water entering the water tower. We would leave the pump on for four hours, and manage to collect approximately six litres maximum of water.
This would be split between washing dishes, bathing baby and flushing the toilet. We had to use water from gallon bottles for water showers, and brought dirty clothing to be washed at a laundry.
On the first day, we thought there might not sufficient water in the well. However, with all the rain that fell, we figured that there might be something wrong with the pump. Perhaps the huge tremours from Sunday’s earthquake off the south coast of Bali caused some serious damage to the mechanism.
This morning, our landlord sent over two workmen to repair the pump. Turns out that a valve, which should automatically open and shut, had broken down and prevented water from being pushed up to the water tower.
So now, this problem is solved, and we are able to resume normal activities in the home. I am now really more appreciative of the huge influence and help that water is to our lives!
Also resolving itself is the moodiness that seemed to arrive with the gloomy weather and captured our dog Caramel.
Together with the cold weather, he had been acting listless and looking totally ill. All he did was sleep or sit on the towels and mattress, did not want to eat and did not respond to our attention. He was also uninterested in his daily morning walks, choosing to go outside only for relieving himself before returning to the comfort of his sleeping area.
Although he did not take a very long walk this morning, he hungrily finished his breakfast before laying in the warmth of the sun. He is also wandering around now, instead of only laying down all the time.
The last problem would be our temporary domestic help.
In the days leading to September 17, the date our usual help left for her annual holiday, we had been searching for someone to help with work around the home until early October when our usual help returns.
It was one of the toughest periods of sourcing, as many other homes in Bali were also looking for replacements for their Muslim domestic helps who were also returning to their home cities for the Idul Fitri celebrations.
We managed to get one to begin work on the 17th itself, with our usual help quickly passing on essential information and instructions.
But I think the past week has been quite a trying period for this temporary help, what with the heavy rain, lack of water in the house, and huge learning curve. She had to learn things on the job, and this is possibly one of the hardest things to do for anyone.
On top of that, without water, there is practically nothing that can be done – no washing of clothes or dishes, no moping of floors, no wiping of dust, no general cleaning to be done. She could not even collect water to flush the toilet, and had chosen to hold her bladder instead of causing a stink in the maid’s room.
So this morning, she did not turn up for work, and she did not call to tell me that perhaps she was sick, or that something had held her up. I will wait and see if she turns up tomorrow with an explanation. If not, we will have to make arrangements to get through the next week or so before our usual help returns.
Facing this onslaught of things – bad weather, no water, sick dog, new help – was quite tiring and frustrating for me, as I had to also deal with fatigue from the early stages of my second pregnancy. I often snapped at the S.O. and my mother, who is visiting until Sept 26, threw things around and generally sulked when things seemed too much.
However, my mood has improved with the weather, and I guess the good long sleep I had last night also helped. With a lighter mood, I could look at things more candidly, and even write about them!
I do hope that we have seen the last of the Madden-Julian oscillation for now, so that this wonderfully warm, dry and bright weather accompanies us for the next few weeks before the raining season arrives.
Back, but busy
July 23rd, 2009We have been away – Singapore; Mestre (Italy); Sicily (Italy); London (England) – for a well-deserved family vacation. During this time there was either a lack of Internet connection or lack of time to go online because I was being a full-time nanny to my son. Hence the lack of updates on all my blogs.
We have been back in Bali since July 10 (the S.O.) and July 13 (myself), but have been thrown in to the thick of work. Still busy, and it looks to continue for at least the next six months.
I am not complaining, but I needed a small break in the midst of all the work, which resulted in this quick update.
I will write again when I next have the time AND feel inspired to do so.
Lembongan Island escape
April 27th, 2009We spent the weekend at Nusa (island) Lembongan off the east coast of Bali, accessible via a one-and-half-hour fast ferry ride from Benoa Harbour in Bali.
There are many companies operating transfers to Lembongan island, but we opted to go with Bali Hai Cruises as they had options of a day-only cruise (Beach Club Cruise, Reef Cruise, Aristocat Nusa Lembongan Cruise) or inclusive of an overnight stay at Lembongan island in one of their well-known Hai Tide Huts (US$125 per person).
We had previously brought a friend, who was visiting from Italy, on the day-only Beach Club Cruise in early March. This time, we had a friend visiting from Kanchanaburi in Thailand and we decided to stay overnight on Lembongan island in the Hai Tide Huts.
Similar as before, we arrived at Bali Hai Cruises at 8.30am. This time, we had to check-in at a counter dedicated for Hai Tide Huts stays on Lembongan island. Besides our boarding pass, coloured hand tags (different colours indicate the Bali Hai Cruise package the person has taken) and leaflet on the activities available at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon and beach club, we also received additional meal coupons for breakfast on the second day, and tickets for our return transfer back the following afternoon to Benoa Harbour in Bali on the Bali Hai II.
We started boarding the Bali Hai II boat at around 8.45am to 9am. Everyone stopped to pose with two girls dressed in traditional Balinese costume, while the Bali Hai II boat hummed quietly in the background as the Bali Hai Cruise photographer took the snaps.
We already had a family picture taken on the previous Beach Club cruise, which we purchased for Rp40,000 (approx. S$5.70/ Eur2.60) after we disembarked on our return to Benoa Harbour in Bali. So this time, we let our Thai friend have her photograph taken.
Once onboard the Bali Hai II, we were served some muffins and Danish, and had free flow of coffee and tea until the boat left Benoa Harbour at 9.15am.
It was the first time on a boat transfer for our friend, and fearing that she may become sea sick on the short trip to Lembongan island, I took Antonio and her to the open-air top deck for fresh air.
The staff kept coming around to carry Antonio as they remembered him from our last trip. An Indian couple from Mumbai – husband is working in Singapore – who were having their short 7-days honeymoon in Bali wanted a photograph with Antonio. So somewhere in Mumbai or Singapore, our little one has become a mini-celebrity!
Antonio continued to entertain passengers – consisting of Koreans, Japanese, Australians, Americans and others – with his antics and insistence of walking around on the deck.
At approximately 10.30pm, we arrived at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon moored off Lembongan island. Those on the Beach Club Cruise had many options: head straight to the Bali Hai Beach Club on Lembongan island and make use of facilities – swimming pool; massage; local village tour – there, or stay on the pontoon for parasailing; diving; snorkelling; banana boat trips; view marine life from the underwater viewing chamber, or view corals in a semi-submersible coral viewer.
The first time, the S.O. and our Italian friend went off on a Discovery scuba dive (US$50 approx. S$72.95/ Eur36.70 per person for new divers, US$40 per person for experienced divers; 30-minutes; approx. S$58.35/ Eur29.35) while Antonio and myself watched them swimming among the variety of marine life from within the underwater viewing chamber at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon.
When they returned, I strapped in for the parasailing (US$20 per person for 10 minutes; approx. S$29/ Eur14.70) over the waters off Lembongan island. The view from the sky is amazing! As the waters were clear that day, I could see the coral reefs from where I was in the air and the island also looked different from the air.
This time though, we immediately took the small transfer boat from the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon and headed straight to the Beach Club on Lembongan island so that we could deposit our overnight luggage for our stay in the Hai Tide Huts.
We had only sufficient time to check in and leave our bags in one www.balicruises.com/sea/balihai/hai_tide.html before the first Lembongan island village tour of the day departed at 11am. There were about 16 of us who wanted to have a look at Lembongan island village, and we were transported around in two pick-up trucks fitted with wooden benches that had a cushion running the length of each bench. It was not the most comfortable or chic sitting aparatus, but it fitted the rustic feel of the locale.
First stop was where Lembongan island locals dry seaweed that is farmed and harvested off the shores of Lembongan island.
Initially left in the sun for the morning, the seaweed is later washed then tied and hung in small sheds to fully dry. Fully dried and clean seaweed can be used to make agar agar.
We were also treated to a spectacular view from a cliff top of wooden boats floating on pristine waters, and you could see the flourishing seaweed in the seaweed farms.
After the expansive view of the ocean, we were brought to experience something totally opposite – underground, enclosed, and dark. It was the Gala Gala underground house on Lembongan island that had been built by Made Dyasa – a farmer, shadow puppet performer and priest – from 1961 to 1976, after being inspired by a Hindu epic tale about how a person named Pandawas built a cave to protect his family from persecutors, and called it Gala Gala.
Made Dyasa’s cave on Lembongan island has seven steep entrances, three of which have been adapted for entrance and exit by tourists; three ventilation spaces; a well; a living area; two kitchen areas; two bedrooms, and a bathroom.
After this adventure, we returned to the Beach Club where a barbecue buffet lunch (inclusive in the package) was served from 12.15pm to 2.15pm.
The buffet lunch included grilled and barbecue meats, salad, fruit, a selection of western and Balinese cakes, drinking water, and coffee & tea. We only had to pay for drinks like juices and beer, which seemed fair since no one knows how much beer or juice a person can imbibe!
Lunch at the Bali Hai Beach Club is always an interesting affair. The first time around, the staff came by to assist us and play with Antonio. This time, we met an Italian couple in their 60s having a vacation at the end of a working trip.
After lunch on the first trip, we had exposed Antonio to a number of firsts: first time playing with sand on the beach, first time meeting a crab, and first time swimming in a proper pool.
He remembered that time well, and became excited when he saw the swimming pool at the Beach Club again. So all of us went in to the pool as quickly as we possibly could. This time, we introduced him to some of the floats but he did not seem too pleased with these foreign objects.
At 2.45pm, the final small boat transfer departed with passengers on the day-only Beach Club Cruise for the Bali Hai II parked at the pontoon. We marvelled at how quiet it was, and revelled in the feeling of exclusivity that permeated the Beach Club. Although we counted at least seven other occupied Hai Tide huts, everyone else was either sleeping inside or were out enaged in a water activity of some sort.
After spending an hour splashing around in the sea and walking along the short beach on our part of Lembongan island, we decided to call on one of our friends at the Batu Karang Lembongan Resort & Day Spa, which is owned by his family, at the adjacent beach on Lembongan island.
Another converted pick-up brought us from Bali Hai Cruises Beach Club to the luxury villa resort. When there, we were treated to an amazing vista of the north part of Lembongan island, the east coast of Bali and Mount Agung.
We walked down to the beach view the seaweed farm at this part of Lembongan island. A lack of breeze or wind to stave off the unrelenting strong suns’ rays made it difficult to cover the length of the beach at 5pm.
Thus we headed back to the Beach Club and chilled out as the sun set. Tired from the long day, and with no entertainment options on Lembongan island (no television, radio, proper bars/clubs, shopping), we had a quick meal at the wooden dining deck of the Bali Hai club house. By 9pm, we had all fallen asleep to the sound of waves lapping on the beach.
The next day, we had an early start with breakfast at 8am. An hour later we all went in to the pool with Antonio and enjoyed having it entirely to us. By 10.30pm, the day’s batch of Beach Club Cruise and Hai Tide Huts vacationers arrived at the Beach Club on Lembongan island.
Our Thai friend and I decided to follow the 11am snorkelling tour while the S.O. rested in the Hai Tide Hut with Antonio. After picking our fins, snorkel equipment and life jacket, we were transferred to a smaller pontoon flaoting about 100 metres from the big Bali Hai Cruises pontoon.
The activity was alright – I did not dare to swim far out as the current seemed strong and I was already tired from the morning’s activities in the pool.
We returned to the Beach Club on Lembongan island after 45 minutes. After drying up and changing, we had lunch and then took the boat transfer back to the pontoon.
Upon arrival at the Bali Hai Cruises pontoon, we decided to go in to the semi-submersible coral viewer. Big mistake – the short trip left all of us feeling quesy in the stomach. However, by the time the Bali Hai II left the pontoon at about 3.15pm, we were feeling better.
We arrived back at Bali Hai Cruises around 4.30pm, feeling slightly tired by happy. It was an extremely fun and relaxing trip. We highly recommend it to anyone who can set aside two days from their visit to Bali for this.